Natural skincare, reviewed in plain words

Zinc, Titanium and the White Cast

Mineral sunscreen works. Whether you will actually wear it every day is the real test, so that is what we score.

The verdict

Zinc oxide earns its place. Tint solves the cast.

7.8

A well-made zinc oxide sunscreen gives broad, stable protection and rarely stings sensitive eyes. That is why it is the category's backbone. The problem is cosmetic. Untinted zinc can leave a lilac-grey film that is obvious on medium and deep skin tones, and an SPF you skip because it looks odd protects nobody.

Our best scorers paired zinc oxide with iron oxide tints, which blend the cast away and add protection against visible light. Titanium-only formulas did well on UVB and badly on long UVA. "Natural" claims on sunscreens get no bonus from us. Proper UVA labelling does.

Badge: average score of the mineral sunscreens in our current panel.

Mineral sunscreen tubes and a smear of white zinc cream on dark stone with one strong beam of light

The two filters

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the only two filters the US FDA proposed as generally recognised as safe and effective in its 2019 proposed sunscreen rule. Zinc covers UVB and long-wave UVA. Titanium is strong on UVB and short UVA but weaker on long UVA. And no, they do not mainly "reflect" light like tiny mirrors. Most of their work is absorbing UV, with a little scattering on top.

What to check before you pay

Reading the label

SPF is measured under ISO 24444 at 2 mg of product per square centimetre of skin. In the EU, the UVA logo in a circle means UVA protection is at least one third of the SPF, following Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC. In the UK, the Boots star rating shows UVA as a ratio, up to five stars. In the US, "Broad Spectrum" requires a critical wavelength of 370 nm. In Australia, sunscreens are regulated as therapeutic goods by the TGA.

The white cast, honestly

Bigger particles mean more cast. Nano-sized particles reduce it. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers nano zinc oxide and nano titanium dioxide safe on healthy, intact skin in non-spray products, and advises against sprays and powders that could be inhaled. If cast is your issue, choose a tinted formula in your shade family, not a heavier one.

How much, how often

The label SPF assumes that 2 mg/cm² test dose. For the face alone, that is roughly a quarter teaspoon, and most people apply far less. Reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming, sweating or towelling. In the US, "water resistant" means tested for 40 or 80 minutes. Mineral films also rub off on hats, collars and fingers.

"Reef safe" is mostly marketing

Hawaii banned the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate from 1 January 2021. Key West passed a similar ban, later blocked by Florida state law. Mineral sunscreens avoid those two filters, but "reef safe" has no legal definition, and research on nanoparticles in seawater is ongoing. The most reef-friendly sunscreen is a rash guard.

The current panel

Tinted zinc SPF 50

8.2

Buy.

Zinc plus iron oxides. No cast on three of four testers.

Untinted zinc SPF 30

7.8

Buy if fair-skinned.

Great UVA balance. Ghostly on deeper tones.

Titanium-only SPF 30

5.9

Depends. Mostly no.

No UVA logo on the box, and we noticed.

Loose mineral SPF powder

4.1

Skip as your only SPF.

Nobody applies enough powder to reach the label number.

For sensitive and acne-prone skin

Mineral filters tend to sting eyes less, which is why people with sensitive skin like them. That does not make the whole formula gentle: fragrance and essential oils turn up in "natural" sunscreens too, so check the INCI. If you are acne-prone, lotions and fluids beat thick balms. If you have melasma, tinted iron oxide formulas are worth the hunt.

Sunscreen is the one product where wearing it daily matters more than which "clean" credentials it has. Pick the one you will reapply.

See the VerdictsHow we test